How to Plant Your New Tree or Shrub
Masonry Wall and Paver Installation
Resource Links
Plants for Special Landscape Conditions
Effective and Safe Use of Pesticides through Integrated Pest Management

How to Plant Your New Tree or Shrub

You have shopped and looked and finally decided on the plant that best suits the spot you've been trying to resolve. Or maybe you are redoing a section or your entire landscape. Whatever the size of your project, it is important to protect your investment by installing it with as much care for its future as possible.

Trees, shrubs and perennial gardens are a permanent part of your home landscape. The outside of your home reflects as much about you as does your choice in interior decor. If properly selected, placed and planted, your new plants will improve the appearance, and increase the value of your home. Improper planting procedures and lack of soil preparation are often the cause of a plants failure to thrive following transplanting. We have listed below a few tips and procedures that will help insure the success of your new planting.

Nursery stock will come as balled and burlapped, (known as B & B), or container grown. We will touch on the requirements of each of these as they differ slightly. Balled and burlapped and container grown plants need to be protected during transport. Make sure foliage and root zone are protected from winds. Cover with protective layer such as a well secured burlap or light tarp. The winds during your trip home sap the plant of moisture and may damage foliage. Once home move plants to shaded location and water. Make sure to keep materials moist - not wet - until you are ready to plant.

Soil Prep

Few plants thrive in heavy clay soils, likewise fast draining sandy soils may dry too quickly and require excessive watering. Proper amendment of soil will help your planting to establish quickly and reduce the amount of care you need to give.

For clay and heavy soils it is recommended that you incorporate organic matter into the soil as deeply as possible. Use only well composted barnyard manure, coarse peat, or thoroughly decomposed compost. Avoid fine textured matter, such as sewage sludge, since these materials do not open up clay soils but actually decrease the small spaces remaining in the soil texture. Clay soils are usually low in oxygen which is required for root growth. Amending the soil will help keep your soil aerated. Organic matter breaks down and repeated applications to the surface of your soil will help to keep building a better medium for your plants. We also suggest the addition of "Rootz", a light fertilizer - bacteria product to help the quick establishment of rooting system into new soil. The addition of this product is necessary for fulfillment of your Wells Nursery LLC guarantee.

Sandy soils drain freely and need added organic matter to help buildup a more fibrous texture to your soil. Amendments such as above will also help establish a better moisture retaining soil and require less watering.

For individual planting holes, amend each hole with one or more of the amendments listed in a ratio of 1 part amendment to 2 parts existing soil or topsoil. Mix soil and amendment well to provide a uniform soil around root zone of plant.

For larger areas such as a perennial or vegetable garden, thoroughly work 2 to 3 yards of organic matter into the soil for every 1,000 square feet of area to be planted. This can be accomplished by hand in most cases, or rental of a rototiller can make your life a little easier.

Balled and Burlapped and Container Grown Stock

If soil is a heavy clay, your planting hole should be 2 to 4 inches shallower than the soil of the root ball. This will allow a good amount of amendment to be used as a mulch layer on top of soil. In sandy soils your hole should be no deeper than the root ball. However, in both instances dig hole twice as wide as the root ball. Use handle of shovel or yard stick to measure your depth. Heavy plants are hard to remove from large holes and plant may not come back out with all soil intact. Never plant anything deeper than original root ball. This is a sure way to kill your investment.

Container stock may be removed from its pot by tapping sides of container, then tipping on its side. Tip slightly with your hand on top of soil to restrain plant from falling too rapidly. Never pull plant straight up by its stem. This will damage roots and set back your plant's growth. Troublesome containers can be cut away by slitting sides to relieve pressure from roots on sides of can. NOTE: Plants can become root bound. If roots of plant are visibly circling the inside of the container when removed follow these steps. Make 4 cuts from top of root ball to bottom along the sides to the depth of 1/2 of an inch. If roots are mainly at bottom of root mass, make an additional cut across the bottom. Plant and water immediately. This step is only necessary for container plants and only if they are visibly root bound.

Balled and burlapped plants should be place in center of hole. Remove any twine that is around trunk or tying top of ball together. Remove top two thirds of wire basket after being placed in hole. Burlap may remain however make sure to remove top portion so that top of soil is exposed and sides of burlap are well below soil level. You don't want to be looking at burlap sticking up around your beautiful new landscape.

Backfill hole after making sure that plant is straight. Use your soil-amendment mixture we have prepared and water once you have filled hole to the half way point. Allow water to drain and backfill remainder of hole. With excess soil, form a temporary water basin or dam around plant just beyond the edge of the backfill. Fill the reservoir with water and allow to drain. Check your newly planted materials frequently, watering only when soil is dry at the 4" deep mark. We suggest the investment of a inexpensive water meter that will allow you to test the moisture content of your soil at 4 to 6 inches deep. Avoid frequent, light waterings. A good deep watering will help plants establish deeper rooting and require less water in the long run.

Mulch

Application of a loose mulch over the planted area to a depth of 4 to 6 inches eliminates the need for cultivating soil and reduces the frequency of watering. It also helps to moderate temperature extremes in both winter and summer. We suggest wood mulches, chips bark chunks, or similar materials. You may add a landscape fabric to reduce weed growth. They come in a variety of sizes to suit you need and are easy to put down before you apply mulch. Do not use plastic sheets! Plastics are a non permeable layer that do not allow for the water or oxygen to pass through. This will KILL your plants and void your warranty. Protect your investment !

Fertilizers

We do not suggest the use of fertilizers on your new plants. The "Rootz" product is more than sufficient to provide the nutrients needed to the plant without causing burn. Do not use dry pellets, spikes or other nitrogen containing materials for one growing season.

Protect Young Trees

Young trees with exposed trunks may be susceptible to "sun scald" during their first years after installation. Usually occurring on the southwest sides of trees, it is caused by sudden temperature changes and water loss due to cold and winds in the late winter. Application of a protective tree wrapping in late fall will reduce the chance of this condition. Remove wrapping in spring to prevent harboring pests in between the wrapping and tree bark.

Trees in windy locations, or "top heavy" trees, should be staked. Use three large stakes and a good tie down to help hold tree in place between the stakes. Do not let wire come in contact with bark of tree. The use of a cushion material is recommended, such as rubber hose, good rubber tie downs, etc. Check with the nursery for the most up to date product available. Check regularly to ensure that tree is not outgrowing its support and being girdled by wires and padding.

Pruning New Plants

Your newly planted trees and shrubs should receive only minimal pruning. Prune out only broken branches. If too much growth is removed this affects the plant's ability to take in sun-producing energy and can result in poor growth and root development. If more is required, consult a nursery or tree specialist.

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Masonry Wall and Paver Installation

This diagram illustrates how a wall and paver walk or patio would typically be constructed. Each site and application will have different needs and effect depth and material of the sub base. Please consult with your contractor or supplier for more information.

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Resource Links

For your convenience, we have included some links to websites where you may find other helpful information for your landscaping projects:

How to Correctly Prune a Tree - Cornell Cooperative Extension

Gardening Resources - Cornell Cooperative Extension

Perennial Information Source - We Carry this Supplier

National Weather Service Local Forecast

University of Connecticut Plant Database

www.GardensAlive.com - Resource for Natural Garden Remedies

www.Espoma.com - Natural and Organic Fertilizers - We Stock these products

www.pavestone.com - Paver and Wallstone supplier

www.navastone.com - Paver and Wallstone supplier

www.JonathanGreen.com - Turf Care Products supplier

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We hope that the information we have provided is helpful and that your landscape will bring you years of enjoyment. If you have any questions please go to our Contact Us page.